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The pattern 1857 or pattern 1861, .58 caliber cartridge box, are the preferred cartridge
boxes. Both boxes
are close in appearance and overall dimensions, the main difference being the 1861 box
has two upright
loops, secured with 1 rivet each, for the waist belt to pass through. Both boxes will have
an implement
pouch, of light leather, sewn to the front, an inner cover with end pieces that cover the
open end of the box,
and an outside flap with a strap sewn near the bottom. Both also have two loops on the
back (in addition
to the loops for the waist belt) for the shoulder belt. Avoid boxes with an additional
rivet on the strap used
to close the box and boxes with a US embossed on the outside flap as both of these
items were added in
1864 and are inappropriate for an early war impression.
Regulations call for the Cartridge Box Belt to be 2.25 inches wide, and 55.5 inches
in length excluding
the ends which are .875 inch wide and 4.25 inches long. These narrow ends allow the
shoulder belt to
be buckled to the cartridge box.
The Box plate is a brass oval, 3.5 inches long by 2.2 inches high with a raised U. S.
There are two metal
eyes on the back which are used to secure the plate to the front of the box.
The shoulder belt plate is a brass circle, 2.5 inches in diameter with a raised
Eagle. As with the belt plate
there are two metal eyes on the back which are used to secure the
plate to the front of the shoulder belt.
Correct tins will have a single lower compartment and a divided upper compartment.
The lower is meant
to hold an arsenal pack of 10 .58 caliber rounds and a tube of 12 percussion caps.
The upper should be
divided, allowing for 4 rounds on one side and 6 on the
other. The edges of the tins need to be turned in to
eliminate sharp edges that could tear the
paper cartridges.
NOTE: Cartridge Box tins are mandatory under Fort Tejon guidelines.
To secure either of the above plates:
First position the plate. For the
cartridge box this is about centered on the outside flap, for the cartridge
box belt plate
this about centered on the chest - as worn.
Second, carefully cut slots in the leather just
wide enought to accept the mounting hoops / eyes.
Third, use a wedge-shaped, strip of
leather and run it through the hoops - so that the "wide" end of the
wedge catches firmly.
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Cap pouches should preferably be the 1850 model. This model is
3 inches tall, 3 inches wide and 1.25
inches deep. It will have an inner cover with flaps and 2 loops
on the back to admit the standard waist belt.
It is preferred that the belt loops be sewn but loops
secured with rivets are acceptable. Proper pouches
will have a strip of sheep skin (with the wool
on) glued and sewn at the mouth of the pouch and a nipple
pick secured in a loop inside the pouch.
At the least cap pouches should match the necessary outward appearance - a wool or sheep skin strip
is
preferred as it helps to prevent caps from falling out of the pouch.
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Waist belts should be of an early war pattern. Typically these belts are just under
2 inches in width, 38
to 40 inches in length, and have a leather loop (as a keeper) sewn to the end
of the belt. Belts with brass
keepers can be used, but this type of belt is generally thought to
have been introduced in 1863 and thus
is after the date of our impression. Recruits who purchase this
style of belt should remove the brass keeper.
For Infantry, belts should buckle from the wearer's right.
Belts should have no oval inspector stamps.
The preferred U.S. Belt plate for our impression is the early war plate. This plate
has U S in block letters,
is oval in shape and is about 2 1/4 inches by just under 3 1/2 inches. Later
war belt plates are smaller
(2 inches by 3 1/4 inches) and more elliptical in shape. The letter style
used for the U S stamp on these
later plates is also somewhat different.
Early war Belt plates also used studs (aka "puppy paws") to attach to the belt, whereas
later plates used
an arrow-head shaped brass hook.
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See the page on weapons for bayonet and scabbard information.
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The Model 1858, smooth-side tin canteen is the preferred canteen for our impression.
Canteens with
concentric rings, know as "bulls-eye" canteens are also acceptable. The canteen should
be made of tin
with a pewter spout, but if a stainless-steel canteen is purchased it MUST be covered.
Canteen straps
can be made either of leather (russet in color), cotton webbing, or of "folded" cotton
duck or drill. Corks
can be attached with either a chain (New York Depot) or with appropriate twine or
jute (all other supply
depots).
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